Working from home again today. Taking a break from pouring over documents and planning our Hostesses first day tomorrow, (I am in charge of familiarizing our local staff with our program elements) to have lunch. I thought this would be the perfect time to get a quick blog session in.
Today may be work, work, work, but it is a fair trade off because yesterday, following our morning meetings, Amy and I were able to familiarize ourselves with a few of the sights around Beijing. Our task is a bit different from other programs because we have all Chinese Nationals, so they probably won't frequent the more touristy areas. As a result, Amy and I chose to visit panjiayuan - affectionately known as the 'antique' market or 'dirt market'.
Markets in China are an experience. The hustle and bustle, yelling, bartering, sights, sounds and smells weave an amazing tapestry for the senses. It is hard not to just stand amidst the organized (and unorganized) chaos and let yourself be caught up in it wonderfully frenetic energy.
Amy and I got out of our cab and immediately it was obvious that we were no longer in the more westernized 5 star hotel section of Beijing. Bikes abounded and people dodged cars, while interacting with street vendors peddling their wares. Another thing of note was how hot it was! I have been routinely having 2-3 showers a day here. With the blanket of smog, one never sees the sun, so you do not realize how much sun you are getting.
The Chinese equivalent of the US SUV... They are everywhere!
The sea of vendors is staggering. Rows upon rows of people displaying their goods. This place goes on for miles... One could spend weeks in there! Bartering is the system used in China. As a foreigner especially, you will get quoted outlandishly expensive prices. There are a couple rules of thumb. 1. Some say once you are given the vendors initial price, cut it down by 80% and go from there. 2. Take off a zero from what they quote you and start there (i.e. if they start at 200 RMB, you offer 20 RMB). This may seem criminal to your western way of thinking, but things in China are cheap, and everyone barters and it is expected. Half the fun for everyone involved is the delicate dance of the barter...I believe it is a sign of respect or a way to gain respect at least... Unless you go too far.... I once, 7 years ago, had a shop keeper shoo me out of her store screaming "Get out! You are NOT WHITE!" - meaning, I was bartering a little too forcefully and was a little too good at it... I was, in effect bartering like a native and it unsettled her.
Now here are some helpful hints if entering a market in China. DO NOT MAKE EYE CONTACT and DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING if you are not interested in getting into a bartering war. They prey on Westerners. Just wander up and down the aisles with no particular interest in your eyes and you should be fine.
Shopkeepers do everything from harassing passersby, to sleeping, to playing games with each other (as depicted in the photo above) - do not let this fool you, the minute you touch something they will be right there to assist you with your potential purchase. A trip to the dirt market is worth the visit simply to people watch.
Amy and I wandered about the market and did not end up buying anything, but I did get some ideas as to what I would go back for. Here are some pics of what I saw:
Statues of deities and other protectors of the home and soul
I particularly liked this guy
"ancient" chess set.... yeah right.
Some local art
Amy and I lasted just over an hour, then we had to seek refuge in a restaurant close by for some local fare, and more importantly.... cold beer.
I apologize if the character for beer is upside down, I was never quite sure which way was up. Just yet another display of my Western ignorance. Amy and I went to the Dumpling house located a stones throw from the market. It was great fun. We walked in and there were no tables, so we were seated with a man that was sitting alone. I love that they would do this. We exchanged pleasantries and it turns out that this man was an electrical engineer doing quite important work. He did speak some English, and my Italian background came in handy as arm movements and gestures did the rest. He was very proud of Beijing and welcomed us and our countries (Amy is from the States) to the Games. He left a little way into our meal but it was great meeting him and sharing lunch together.
You can usually do just fine in restaurants as menus come with pictures! It's a 'point and eat' system. Here is what we ordered:
Water spinach... a boy needs his greens. Very tasty.
Hot and Sour Fern Root Noodles - we thought we would try something different.... they were SOOOO good. A great consistency and nice and spicy!
Sauteed shredded pork in Sweet bean Sauce... delicious!
We each ordered a local beer of course. Here is what we chose not to order:
"Stir-fry a kidney"
"Belly cooked to no sauce"
"Stir-fry for a short time"
This last one was not strange... I just liked the name. We were basically the only Westerners in the restaurant and, as a result we got stared at and waved at a lot by little children in the restaurant.
One of our fans...
Sated and cooled off, Amy and I would then venture off to the Temple of Heaven which was a short cab ride away.... I will save this for my next post, however, as I must now return back to work... I am so dedicated.
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