Another great day

Wednesday, September 3, 2008 – Lhasa Tibet – 10:00 pm

Today was a good day (surprise, surprise). It was more relaxed and slightly less overwhelming (I only took 100 photos instead of my usual 350-400). It started out with our morning breakfast – and us lamenting the fact that Fran and Mirjam would be leaving our now, close-knit group for their own new adventures the following morning. It was our last full day together!

Tse Tan picked us up once again at 9:00am and we set out for the day. Today it was off to Yam Drok Lake, which is located very high in the mountains - no less than 5,000 metres above sea level. It is one of Tibet’s three holy lakes. It supposedly started out as a very small lake and then Dalai Lama #5 threw his walking stick in the lake and it became quite large. Once again, Ethan put on his iPod as we made the steep ascent into the mountains as the rest of us drank in the beautiful scenery. I have to say that we have been very lucky in Tibet. It was raining at our hotel in the morning when we left, but we chased the sun and caught it. No matter where we have been in this country, the sun has followed us.

It was definitely worth the hour drive to the lake and the sharp rise in altitude that caused all of our ears to pop (this was actually the worst my ears have felt since being here). We got out of the van and surveyed the scene. It was breathtaking. The lake actually reminded me of Lake Moraine in BC. It was a brilliant turquoise colour due to the fact that it was a salt lake. There was also a huge prayer flag pyramid (amazing). Due to the long car ride, however (and the copious amounts of coffee I consumed at breakfast), first stop for me was the “boilet” – you never know what you are going to get – but it will usually end in a smile or quizzical nod at least. Upon exiting the bathroom, we were all immediately pounced upon by locals peddling their wares and tugging on yaks that they wanted to have us take pictures with for money. This was the one thing that was starting to get on our nerves a little in our idyllic paradise. You see, with the dearth of tourists, the locals clamor for business and are EXTREMELY PERSISTENT. It was because of their persistence, however, that David Ethan and I discovered something even more breathtaking.

Love the signs

Yom Drak lake

David and Ethan climb to the top

Not wanting to be hassled on our last day together, the five of us noticed a large hill that lead to a summit – so we just started climbing in hopes that we would not be followed. The ascent was brutal – a workout. Mirjam and Fran only went part way, but David, Ethan and I were determined to make it to the top… no matter our lung capacity when we reached it! What a payoff! From the summit we got a 360 degree view of the lake and could even see snow capped mountains in the distance. We were breathless… and not just because of the altitude and strenuous climb. The three of us stayed up there for a while and then decided to return to where our van was parked. On the way back down my cell phone rang (a very strange and surreal thing when on the top of a mountain in Tibet). It was Dan, of Dan and Susie 36 hour train to Lhasa fame. We made plans to meet for dinner at 7pm at the Lhasa kitchen. Following some more group photo ops is was time to head home.

Prayer flag tower and a yak.

On our way back to Lhasa we had the amazing good fortune to stop in a small village and enter the home of a Tibetan “middle class” family. A kind woman allowed us into her home. In exchange, we gave her a few yuan and some Olympic pins, which made her weathered face light up in a brilliant smile. I have to admit that the home was a bit of a culture shock for me. Middle class in Tibet is not middle class in Canada by any means. It was compound style – walled with a main entry. I will let the photos speak for themselves.

It was a humble home, but full of love, a kitten and a crazy evil dog… but just doing his job protecting the family I guess. He did not stop growling and barring his teeth the whole time we were there. I sure was glad he was chained up. The wall paintings that adorned the exterior and interior of the home were spectacular and the woman very welcoming.





The highlight, however was the children we met outside the home. They were very curious to see Westerners and hung around our van and stared at us. We gave them some candy that we had in the van and their faces lit up and personalities came out. They were quite the characters. I have said it before, and I will say it again: Kids are kids anywhere in the world and it is great to see. We played with them, took photos of them (which they loved seeing again in our digital cameras) and then said our goodbyes – “Calishou”. It was a moving experience, very different from our experience picnicking with the locals, but one I will always remember nonetheless.






We had our driver Tashi drop us at Barkhor street (the market) as Fran and Mirjam wanted to pick up some souvenirs before heading out the next morning (as did David, Ethan and I). We did great in the market, mainly because it was raining a little and the lack of tourists. After wandering and shopping for an hour, it was time to stop at our favourite Tibetan terrace, Gangki Restaurant for some beer and a midday momo.

After drinks were ordered, the gang settled in to write postcards home (sorry kids, I am not the postcard type). We were all somewhat distracted, however, because the music they were playing was all English music from the 70’s to the 90’s – very “easy rock”. All of us, just glad to hear music we knew, sang along to every song – from the Eagles Hotel California, to Lionel Ritchie, the Carpenters, to Celine Dion (I definitely drew the line here! Good lord, there is no escape!). The wait staff really got a kick out of us and just sat and stared and giggled, watching our every move. At one point, a particularly cheesy slow song from the late 70’s came on and so I had to ask Mirjam to dance… and dance we did. We slow danced right on top of that terrace, overlooking Jokhang Monestary in the middle of Lhasa, Tibet. Such a great group. Such good fun.

The Postcard Club

By this point it was 5:30 – so time for some last minute shopping in the market as we were not meeting Susie and Dan until 7:00. I got some souvenirs as did David and Ethan… now the big question: “How the heck are we going to lug it all around with us on the rest of our escapades???” Oh well, we will figure it out.

We met Dan and Susie at 7 and went to the Lhasa Kitchen for dinner. All of us got on famously. We regaled each other with tales of what we had been up to in Tibet, and what we were going to do with the rest of our time travelling. Mirjam and Fran have an organized tour all through southern China and Dan and Suzie are biking from Lhasa to Nepal. After our experiences yesterday with the roads up to Drak Yerpa and today’s trek to Yam Drok, all I can say to them is “good luck! I can’t wait to keep up with their adventures on their blog (you can click on the link at the side of this page to follow along too!)

Our gang - Ethan, David, Mirjam, Fran, Susie, Dan

Today, it truly felt like the last supper for me. Looking around the table, I realized that this may be the last time in a long time that I would see these people. I mean, this is what astounds me about travelling – how you can make such instant, deep connections with people that you only spend 5 days with. I will miss Fran’s sense of humour and penguin, and without Mirjam, who am I going to slow dance with to bad elevator music on terraces with??? The five of us are in the process of making a yearly travel group. Fran wants to go throw cheese at people in Italy, whereas Ethan wants to witness the running of the bulls in Spain. We will see, but we all really want to keep our connection – so I hope the David Daldwin Tour Company will not only live on, but thrive!
Following dinner, it was back to our favourite Yak yoghurt store to talk to our new friends, the shop owners as well as pick up a few last souvenirs. Ethan was in for a surprise when he entered the shop because his concoction from the night before (chocolate/strawberry yoghurt) was now proudly being displayed on the counter! We talked, we laughed, we drank yoghurt together. It was a fitting end.

Tomorrow morning we are waking up early to have one last breakfast with Mirjam and Fran and to see them off to the airport. It will be with a heavy heart that I say goodbye because I just can’t imagine not having them in our group for the rest of our adventures. We truly have become a family (getting hammered on fire water and yak butter tea at the top of a mountain in Tibet will do that to you). One good thing about them going to the airport, however, is that our guide Tse Tan and driver Tashi have to take them, which means the boys get to sleep in in the morning! We are not leaving to tour for the afternoon until 1pm. I am hoping that I can use that time to catch up on my blogging and photos.

Well, that’s all for this post. Until tomorrow, my last full day

A library, a mountain, a goat and a pic nic...

Tuesday, September 3, 2008 – Lhasa, Tibet

Reeling from the day before, I woke up exited once again for what the day would have in store for us. On the schedule for today was the Sera Monastery and Drak Yerpa – an ancient monastery built into the side of a mountain in caves. I wouldn’t think it possible to outdo the day before… but it happened!

We loaded up with snacks and water for the road. Arriving at Sera, I knew immediately that it would be a completely different experience from Jokhang and Potala. As you entered, you walked up a tree-lined walkway that went on seemingly forever. It was flanked with monk dormitories and exuded an aura of introspection, meditation and learning. There was a feeling of sadness that loomed in the air as well. Sera used to be a place where the monks studied and debated in the open courtyard. Due to recent events, however, this practice has been suspended for the time being. The number of monks in the monastery has also dramatically dropped in the last years.



I was in heaven in Sera – My inner book geek was ecstatic! We entered a room and it was floor to ceiling bookshelves that housed religious scriptures. Sitting in the corner was a man that was using printing blocks to create copies of the scriptures. The sun was shining into the room, imbuing the room with an otherworldly feeling – AGAIN. We each bought printings to take home. Exploring the Monastery was as amazing as the day before. So many treasures, so much to take in.





We went into the temple part and yet again, it was another moving experience. We once again, said hello to many in line, shaking hands with the children, saying Tashi deleck. We bought Kada - the white scarf -for an offering. We wound our way though the rooms and got to the horse head buddha that was looked after by two monks accepting and blessing the kadas people were giving as offerings. In return for my offering, the monk blessed me and then I was adorned with a old Kada that had been blessed and housed in the temple for some time. I was honoured and speechless.

us with our blessed Kada

On the walk back to the van, the street was lined with many local vendors…. And a random cow. We checked everything out and went on our way… to what would be one of the most amazing experiences I have had in a very long time. We were off to Drak Yerpa.

Nestled amongst the mountains, 4,500 metres above sea level, lies a quiet and austere Monastery called Drak Yerpa. The drive up to Drak Yerpa was a bit hairy to say the least. We zigged and zagged up the mountainside on an impossibly small dirt road, with no guardrails. Ethan, who does not enjoy heights so much, put on his iPod and tuned us all out… his own personal meditation before reaching the summit I suppose. The vistas were remarkable. What seemed like millions of prayer flags blanketed the side of the mountain – bathing it in colour.

We were immediately met by a group of Tibetans selling prayer flags. All of us bought one set of prayer flags, put all of our names on it in Tibetan, dated it and offered it to the heavens for good fortune and long life. Wanting to cover all of my bases, I bought one myself and put my name on it. Once local then took them and strung them up on the mountain peaks yelling to us as he was doing it to show us where our flags went.

My name in Tibetan

Drak Yerpa was like nothing I had experienced. It was hallowed and quiet – no tourists to be seen. The cliffs were dotted with little temples built into their walls, each one guarded by a Tibetan monk. We wound our way up the mountainside, exploring all of the temples, meeting the local monks. Here you were allowed to take pictures and I am glad to share them with you. Once again, the smell of yak butter candles permiated the air. I met a monk in one temple that let me take a photo of him and with him. He laughed and smiled when I showed him the picture on my camera. His smile warmed my soul.

yak butter candles

We took the ascent slowly, none of us wanting to forget a single detail, wanting to remember every moment. Tse Tan had given me a piece of hard yak cheese that I was to suck on. It was to combat the altitude. It tasted different, but it worked. The Tibetan Buckley’ so to speak. Once we reached the top, having visited all of the tiny temples, we lost David. Where had David Daldwin, programme manager extraordinaire gone? We soon found him. With a goat. He had made a new fuzzy friend. The goat delighted in the through scratching behind his ears that David was administering. David communed with the goat (who, we discovered was a pet of the monks), as we all took photos.

I thought the monastery was amazing… that was just the beginning. The day was glorious and many local Tibetans were taking advantage. Several people were picnicking on the mountainside. We walked over into the groupings of people just for a wander, but we were soon being offered food and candy from a group of family and friends that were out to enjoy the day. At first we politely refused, but they would have none of it! Soon, we found ourselves sitting amongst them sharing food, trying to communicate with one another laughing and soaking up the sun.

I sat down beside an older gentleman, bedecked in a jaunty fedora and sunglasses. Little did I know what I was in for. He soon found out that I was from Janada (Canada). It was over for me. As it turned out, he has a friend living in Canada. For the rest of the afternoon, I was forced to take shot after shot of baijio (Chinese fire water) and I was forced to smoke cigarette after cigarette! Now all of you know I am anti smoking, but it was one of my cultural exceptions. There was no denying this man. He was literally throwing cigarettes at me on the mountaintop while plying me with fire water. Let me tell you, I have never had a buzz faster than when downing shots and smoking at almost 5,000 metres! We learned a new word that day: SHAPTA! Cheers. We were all yelling it out to the amusement of our local friends who were laughing and clapping uproariously. Such a great time, and authentic and heartwarming experience…with such hardship, it is amazing how happy, warm and kind these people are. They do not have much to give, but they give it willingly.







Wanting a reprieve from the smoking and drinking, Ethan, David and I decided the best thing to do (and not the smartest) was to climb to the top of the mountain to look at the scenery and yaks. I am surprised that we came back unharmed and did not fall off the mountain – (I remind you of the lack of guardrails in Tibet). Before we reached the top, we ran into a group with a yak adorned in traditional garb. After may shots and cigarettes, David and Ethan thought it best to pay 5 yuan to have their photo taken atop said yak.

We reached the summit of our climb (against Tse Tan’s wishes, who thought us too inebriated to go on a hike). It was gorgeous. Then we went back to our new friends. We passed out Olympics pins to everyone and they were appreciative. It was great to be able to offer them something in return for their hospitality. Pictures were taken, more shaptas were said. They also offered us homemade yak butter tea. We had been warned by our guidebook about this experience. It is a must in Tibet, but everyone said it was terrible. It is a concoction of melted yak butter, hot water, tea leaves and salt. It is supposedly great to get you through the winters and acts as a natural chapstick. The first gulp was a little much, but I have to say I got used to it. It is like drinking hot, salty, liquid butter… with a somewhat odd taste. Perhaps it was our surroundings and our amazing day and experience, but I was honoured to be drinking my yak butter tea at the top of the world.

yak butter tea

On the way down, we all blessed ourselves at a holy spring. The cold water, helped to sober me up to be honest and combat the altitude.

We were all quiet on the ride home, just reflecting on our day. It was back to the hotel for a nap and then back to Barkhor for a great dinner with friends and food – all for under 4$. If someone told me right then that I had to go home. It would have all been worth it….. a thousand times over.

Tashi Delek Lhasa, Tibet!

Tashi Deleck - Hello Tibet!
Monday, September 1, 2008 - Lhasa, Tibet

The following morning David, Ethan and I woke up, showered and met Mirjam and Fran for breakfast. It is nice having our breakfast included in our hotel rate. We were all still abuzz, recounting our adventures from the night before and wondering what our day would have in store for us. The sun was shining, the air was crisp and we were eager to set out.

Tse Tan picked us up promptly at 9:00 am and our first stop was the Jokhang Temple, located in the heart of old Lhasa. The temple was built over 1000 years ago, and many Tibetans still flock to it each morning with their yak butter, barley grains or monetary notes to make offerings to Buddha for longevity and good fortune. The group of us stepped out of our van, and I am not sure that any of us were prepared for what we were met with, or what we were about to experience.

Jokhang Temple

Immediately, we were struck with the smell of burning juniper leaves, yak butter and barley. A strange combination, but I associate that smell with a Tibetan home for some reason (even though I have never visited one). It is both comforting and pure - the smoke, intoxicating. Now, as most of you know, I am not a fan of the incense at home. But here, for some reason, I love it. I guess it is akin to those large pink houses in Miami… there, they work; put one in Toronto and you would think the person was coo coo for coco puffs. I love waking up in the morning and smelling burning incense on the wind. It is like a Tibetan campfire. That, coupled with the weather here, really reminds me of home in the fall during camping season. Perhaps that is why I am loving Tibet so much.


Two large urn like furnaces flank the main entrance into Johang which is adorned with a golden statue of a unicorn and deer between a wheel. These urns are where the locals make their offerings. A large pole covered in prayer flags also stands beside one of the urns at the front of the Temple. Tibetan prayer flags are brightly coloured pieces of cloth (red=fire, blue=space, green=water, yellow=earth, white=the clouds/wind – representing the five sacred elements). Upon the pieces of cloth are printed prayers, offerings to the gods. Those that put up prayer flags ask for a long and healthy life as well as blessings. They stay up until they disintegrate and the prayers are carried up to the heavens on the wind. For more information, visit www.prayerflags.com.

The temple at 9:30am is full of activity. A large number of Buddhists were walking in circles, clockwise around the temple as a form of meditation and prayer. Many were holding prayer beads or prayer wheels, which they also turn clockwise. They can walk around the temple as many times as they wish (some even hundreds), but it is always done in an odd number. As they would pass the prayer flags, many would stop in a moment of prayer, touching their foreheads to the flags.

We all stood there for a moment, drinking it all in as Tse Tan, a practicing Buddhist, told us all about the history, what was happening around us, as well as personal stories relating to the temple. We then walked to the front entrance of the temple (which was a little hidden to the side). As we walked around the corner, once again, I was not totally prepared for what I was about to encounter. Many locals were prostrating themselves in front of the temple in prayer and meditation. Tse Tan had told us that this is what people did each morning, but to see it in action was humbling. Chanting echoed in my ears as the people would stand, salute the temple then go down own their knees, lower themselves fully to the ground on their stomachs and then come back up to standing position. I was moved by people actually living their religion, embodying what they believed. That does not happen very often in North America. After watching the prostrations for a few minutes, it was time to enter the temple proper. No photos were allowed inside the temple (or any temples for that matter), so you will have to rely on my descriptions.

I have to admit that my conscience was being tested and I was feeling pangs of guilt as we entered the Temple. As Westerners, all eyes were on us as we passed everyone in line waiting to enter the temple. Several “hellos” were being called out and the younger Tibetans giggled and laughed while we responded “Tashi Delek” – or greetings. I asked Tse Tan if it was OK that we were bypassing the line and if they would get mad. He responded no, because they were waiting to make offerings and pray to Buddha whereas we were just here to visit the temple and learn about the history. Seeing as Tse Tan was a practicing Buddhist and he was the one who said it was fine I felt a little better, but pangs of guilt did stay with me as I went through the temple. Were we just tourists trying to appropriate another culture, capitalizing on an opportunity? I just hope that they did not think that I was disrespectful in any way and truly interested in learning about their culture. It is something that I have had to deal with my entire time here in Tibet.

A modest exterior belies the grandeur that is housed within Jokhang’s walls. A warm, dim glow greeted us, created by the burning of Yak butter candles. The brilliant colours of the hand painted murals, door jams, and statues of Buddha guilded in gold were staggering. The history of this place amazed me. Tse Tan had a story about everything. It was crazy. The history, the aura, the sheer splendor housed in the temple. As we went through the temple we watched and learned as people made their offerings to different buddhas depending on what they needed blessings for. Some prostrated, some touched their foreheads to relics, some simply donated a few yuan. Room after room was filled with treasures and stories the next more amazing that the one that preceded it. The sounds of deep guttural chanting, the smells of yak butter candles, the sight of the countless treasures… it was so much to process. We walked through the temple and then went up to the roof to a gorgeous courtyard. All of old Lhasa was at our feet. The sun was shining an the vista impressive. We just let the scene wash over us, took lots of photos, breathed in the fresh air and enjoyed the moment. Then it was back for some final touring of the Temple.

The gang on the rooftop courtyard - Jokhang, temple

roof adornments

We emerged from the warm glow of the temple into the bright sunshine. Tse Tan gave us one hour to explore the local market on Barkhor street. It was fun to explore as the wares were different than those in China and it was also much cheaper (if you can even believe it). The five of us wandered, laughed and joked with each other while we haggled with the local vendors. Our group was gelling amazingly well, and to be honest, I was quite surprised as we all have very different personalities.

We wound our way through Barkhor street and ended up at the Lhasa Kitchen for lunch. The five of us sat down with Tse Tan our guide and Tashi our driver for a sumptuous meal. We ordered samplings of many different things on the menu and shared it all family style. I love it that this is what we do. We had yak momos (like a dumpling), vegetable momos, masala, shabaleb (fried bread with yak meat – tastes similar to a samosa), rice, and countless other dishes, all delicious. Once again, it was almost a joke when the bill came. For five of us it was about $3.50 each. Amazing.

We needed the fuel because it was off to the Potala Palace. Started in the 7th Century as two rooms, until the 17th century when the 5th Dalai Lama expanded it to its present grandeur of over 1000 rooms and 13 floors. It is divided into two different sections, the white section (or political section), housing all administrative and social buildings and the red section (or religious section), housing all of the private rooms of the respective Dalai Lamas and monks – meditation rooms, sleeping chambers etc.

Potala Palace

The Gang before the climb

We were all a little suspect as to how our bodies would react to attempting to climb the 263 steps at the palace… we think there were more. Guide books had warned us that the Potala Palace should not be attempted on the first couple of days you arrive in Tibet due to your body attempting to acclimate to the altitude. Well, it was our first full day and we were going to give it a go.

Here is a helpful hint: When attempting to climb the numerous steps of the Potala, do not walk beside David. When we started the climb, as soon as his foot hit the first step, he said “one” and then proceeded to count all the way up. By step 13 or so, I had to politely tell him that, if he continued, I may have to push him over the side of the palace wall. He stopped (counting out loud anyway). I have to say, the climb, due to the altitude, was much more rigorous than climbing the great wall.

We finally reached the top and once again, it was sensory overload. The Palace was amazing. To think these relics have stood for centuries. I am not going into detail because it was just crazy. Too much to explain. The palace housed many tombs of past dalai lamas encrusted with jewels, gold and other precious metals. The large assembly hall was equally impressive. The architecture was also quite ingenious, as the Tibetan craftsmen put beautiful skylights in all over the temple to provide light. Sunshine streamed through the palace, creating quite a transcendental feeling in the air.

The Gang reaches the top... the wall was holding us up!

Following Potala, we were all pretty wiped, both physically and emotionally, so it was back to the hotel for a quick nap before heading out to dinner. We all went back to Barkhor street, also joined by Amy, my boss from Beijing who had arrived in Tibet a few days prior. We gorged once again, and once again, each paid maybe $4 for dinner – alcohol included (we had passed our alcohol abstinence period finally!).

After a dinner full of laughs, great conversation and good times, we walked down barkhor to catch a cab home. On the way, we came across a little shop that sold Tibetan flavoured yoghurt. The ladies in the shop took a liking to all of us, so we all got yoghurt. Fran got orange, Mirjam and David got apple, and I got taro (it was purple and I was feeling adventurous). Ethan tried mine – and did not like it at all, so he made his own flavour – chocolate strawberry. He was finally happy. The girls who owned the shop had never tried it, so they did and gave it the thumbs up!

Ethan does not like Taro...

Chocolate strawberry... good!

The ladies agree.

With full bellies and happy hearts, once again – we headed for home to meditate on what we experienced that day as well as for a well earned sleep.

Can't Even Begin....

Monday, September 1, 2008 - 10:10 pm
Lhasa, Tibet

I am on sensory overload right now and I honestly have no idea where to begin. My last 26 hours in Lhasa, Tibet have been indescribable. Lhasa literally means “place of the gods” and I am wont to believe it. I am awash with thoughts and emotions, grasping in a vain attempt to hold on to every last shred of my experiences and impressions, desperate to communicate them in a way that will not only serve as a log for myself, but will convey, even by the smallest of degrees the feeling I have been imbued with since setting foot in this mystical land. Life presents you with experiences that you never imagine possible, and I defy anyone to not come away from this place a changed person in one respect or another. I am feeling this way and I have only been here for just over a day. I can’t wait to see what the next five days have in store.

Stepping off the train in Lhasa, David, Ethan and I knew instantly that we weren’t in Beijing anymore… and what a relief! There was space! We were not being jostled or yelled at, and had a moment to collect ourselves. More than that, the air was fresh and clear, the sky was blue and went on for miles as the sun was just beginning to set beneath the picturesque mountains, which encircle Tibet. The three of us were more dumbfounded and awestruck at this train station than the frenetic monstrosity that was Beijing West – for its sheer, raw beauty. I am not sure any of us were prepared for it. Perhaps I am just painting a memory here, and waxing slightly poetic, but I could swear that we could smell incense permeating the air we were breathing, acting as a soothing balm, putting us in a calm and relaxed state. One does not rush anywhere in Tibet. It is a place that one cannot help but slowly drink in and experience.



Tse Tan, our local Tibetan guide that will be with us for the duration of our trip, met us at the station. He each gave us a traditional Kada – or white silk scarf, which is a Tibetan symbol of welcome. His name translates to John in English – I knew instantly that we would get along just fine. The tour situation for guides in Tibet has been nothing less than dire in recent months as the borders have just been open to tourists. On the way to our hotel, Tse Tan told us about the area, what we would be doing over the coming days and how to combat altitude sickness. The latter is of utmost importance if you are going to visit Tibet. Tibet occupies the Tibetan Plateau, which lies at China’s southwest corner just a little below 12,000 feet or just over 4,000 metres. The key is water, water and more water. We were instructed that we should refrain from drinking alcohol at least one day. Sad for us, but we were good boys and followed the rules. Trust me… we were glad we did the following day. The rest of the ride I just sat back, mouth agape letting the stark and breathtaking scenery wash over me, drinking in all I could.

We arrived at our hotel, the Brahmaputra Grand, Tibet’s only 4 star hotel (but due to the lack of tourism, we are getting an ‘econolodge’ deal). It is quite grand, and our room well appointed. We even have free internet (hence being able to post blogs!). The three of us all type up our blogs in word and then take turns on the internet to post. It is actually making my blog entries much more detailed (as you can see), because I am not fighting to beat the internet before it konks out.

As soon as we arrived, we knocked on the door of our friends Mirjam (from Slovenia) and Fran (from Italy) who are joining us on our Tibet leg. We said our hellos and made plans to go for dinner….not before we showered, however! 36 hours on a Chinese train breeds all kind of stank on one’s person. Following a quick clean up, we all met in the lobby. We did not care where we were going to go, we just loved being outside in fresh, crisp air. The weather here is reminding me of Canadian late autumn. It is gorgeous and warm during the day, but as soon as the sun drops behind the mountains, a sweater and/or jacket is in order. We were all tired and had a full day of touring ahead of us so we wanted to stay close.
We wandered down the street and saw a hotel that looked like it may have a restaurant. David went in and spoke with the receptionist, who immediately ran out of the hotel. I thought he may have offended her but as it turned out, she was running next door because the local Tibetan man who ran the adjoining teahouse spoke English. His name was Nam Han and he immediately ushered us in. We were convinced the place was closed. The lights were off and there was not a person to be seen. All of a sudden the lights went on and we were asked to pick our table.

We all sat down and Nam Han joined us. We asked him to share our meal with us, but he had already eaten. The Italian in me knew that this group of random people thrown together because of the Olympics would get along just fine. How did I know? The first words out of everyone’s mouth was let’s order a bunch of dishes and share. Awesome. David and Ethan took up the mantle of ordering while Mirjam, Fran and myself sat and listened to Nam Han as he regaled us with stories of his life, the changes going on in Tibet, and his personal situation. Nam Han used to be a tour guide in Tibet who left to India (and had the Indian accent when he spoke English to prove it), when unrest came into Tibet. He lived in India for 10 years and was now back in Tibet. He is an out of work tour guide – the tourists are just not coming. I first thought that he was trying to get us to give him sympathy in the form of money, but was soon proven wrong. He told us all about Tibet and what to do and see in Lhasa, as well as all about the Yoghurt Festival that had started the day previous. (And I have to say the Yak Yoghurt is awesome! All in all, we are all fans of the Yak!).

David and Ethan ordered a plethora of dishes, ranging from Yak meat dumplings called momos, cucumbers, pork spare ribs, potato curry, and some sort of potato momos which were delicious. We gorged ourselves. When we asked for the bill we were informed that it would be 80 Yuan… we immediately said: “each?” – thinking we had been taken advantage of seeing as it was a hotel. “Oh no, they replied – 80 total”. So for 5 people dinner was 80 yuan which works out to about 2 dollars per person. Good lord. It blows my mind every time. We also learned our first Tibetan word – Tutichi – meaning thank you.




Bellies full, hearts content, legs slightly wobbly from the altitude, our new group of fast friends meandered home talking of what we might encounter the following day – our first full day in Tibet.

Well, loyal reader – if you have forged your way through my entire entry – you deserve a break. It was great to relive it, but I have to leave it here. I need more time to process my day today. A break is in order for both you and I. I will leave you with this:

Today was by far one of the greatest, most eye-opening, wondrous, joyous, sad, awe inspiring and visually stunning days I have experienced in a very long time…perhaps even longer than I can remember. Like it’s neighbour China, Tibet is a land of dualities. It is a world all its own and unlike anywhere I have ever known. The Tibetan people are by far one of the most beautiful and captivating peoples I have ever seen. Their eyes are deeper than any ocean and the lines on their weathered faces tell stories older than any tree. They captivate. They inspire. I count myself honoured and humbled to have this opportunity. My blessings immeasurable. I know I have gone on and on, but the blue sky, the gleaming sun, the warm people and stunningly rugged terrain – amazing. I may have glimpsed heaven, and never have been closer to god… whoever that might be.